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Best electric pumps for gravel (should you ditch the CO2?)

Short answer: if you're riding your first gravel race, or a 30 to 60-mile course, here's the race-day plan. When you flat, plug the hole first, then add air. A small electric pump is the easiest way to add it: it fits in a jersey pocket or frame bag, shows you the pressure, and lets you top up a tubeless tire again later if the sealant seals but the tire lost air. CO2 is faster and lighter, but one cartridge is about one fill, and it's easy to over- or under-shoot. Our pick for most beginners: an e-pump (or a hand pump) as your main inflator, plus one CO2 cartridge as a backup. Charge the pump the night before.

Last checked: . Product details come from the retailer pages we checked (and are claimed figures, not our test results). Race figures come from each race's page, which cites the organizer.

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Flat mid-race? The fix, in order

  1. Get off the course line. Pull fully off the road or trail before you look at the tire. Gravel packs are fast and dusty.
  2. Spin the wheel and listen. On tubeless, a small hole often seals on its own if you turn the hole to the bottom and let sealant pool there for a few seconds.
  3. Plug it if it won't seal. Most race-day tubeless flats are small holes. A plug fixes them in a minute or two.
  4. Add air. This is where your pump or CO2 comes in. With an e-pump you can stop at your race pressure; with CO2 you get one shot.
  5. Tube as the last resort. If the sidewall is cut, boot it and put a tube in. A tube needs a full fill from flat, which is the most air you'll ask of any inflator all day.

Practice this once at home. Doing it for the first time at mile 20, with riders flying past, is when beginners lose the most time.

Is CO2 worth carrying on race day?

Electric mini pumpCO2Hand mini pump
SpeedHands-free; you wait while it runsFastest by far: secondsSlowest, especially on high-volume gravel tires
How many fillsLimited by the battery (see each pump's claim)One cartridge, roughly one fill. Carry more for more flatsUnlimited, if your arms hold out
Hitting a pressureEasy: most show a digital reading, and some stop at a set pressureHard to control without a gaugeHard without a gauge; slow to get high
Things that go wrongA dead or cold battery; forgetting to charge itRunning out; fumbling a cartridge in the coldVery little, beyond a worn seal
WeightHeavier than a cartridge and head, often about the same as a mini pumpLightest per fillLight; never needs charging

Our take: yes, carry one cartridge and a head, but don't make CO2 your only plan. It's the fastest fix when you're chasing a cutoff, and it's the backup if your pump battery is flat. What it can't do well is the small top-up you often need after a plug, because you can't stop a cartridge halfway. Many riders also let the CO2 out and refill with air after the race, because CO2 tends to seep out of tires faster than air.

What fits in a jersey pocket or frame bag

The full list by distance is in our packing list.

Topping up tubeless after the sealant seals

Here's the flat beginners don't expect: the sealant does its job, the hiss stops, but the tire is now soft. Riding on it risks a rim strike or a burp. This is where an e-pump earns its spot. Thread it on, watch the reading and stop at your race pressure. You might do it two or three times in a rough race, which is the main reason a pump with several fills per charge beats a single cartridge. Before you thread a pump on, make sure the valve core is snug, and carry a valve core tool: a head that screws on can loosen a removable core when you take it off. If you run hookless rims, a pump with an automatic stop at a safe pressure is a nice backstop.

Real races where your inflation plan matters

How much backup you carry depends on how far you are from help. Here are shorter courses from races we track.

Race (course)DistanceSupportLongest gap
Barry-RoubaixThriller36 miFeed zones at mi 2222 mi
Southern Cross50 mile50 miFeed zones at mi 12, 3220 mi
Bighorn GravelLittle Bighorn52 miaid at mi 14 and 28, plus neutral water at mi 21—
Highlands Gravel ClassicFarmlands54 miFeed zones at mi 19.9, 42.622.7 mi
Crusher in the TusharCrusher69.9 miNo outside support—
Spring Valley Wilder 100 (formerly Almanzo 100)Wilder 6565 miself-supported—

"Longest gap" is the longest stretch between feed zones (or the finish) where the organizer publishes feed-zone miles; "—" means the organizer doesn't publish feed-zone miles for that course, or there's no aid at all. Where there's no outside support, you're on your own between official stops.

Rough courses also chew through tires. See tires by terrain for what to run.

What to look for in an e-pump for gravel

The pumps we'd look at, side by side

Pump (store)Max pressureClaimed weightBattery and chargeSeats tubeless?
HiLine E-Pump Boost (Competitive Cyclist)150 PSI207 g11.1V; up to 400 seconds of runtime; 3–5 road or 5–9 MTB tires per charge; 70-minute full chargeListing says yes, for road, gravel and MTB
SILCA Elettrico Micro Mini (Jenson USA)Auto shut-off at 72 PSI111 g7.4V 400mAh; about 3 tires per charge (about 3.5 CO2 cartridges' worth); 25-minute USB-C rechargeNot claimed
HiLine E-Pump Pro 2.0 (Competitive Cyclist)Gauge to 120 PSI4.79 oz (about 136 g)45-minute USB-C recharge; fits Presta, Schrader and needleNot claimed
SILCA Elettrico Ultimate Mini (Competitive Cyclist)100 PSI7.83 oz (about 222 g)Battery specs not listed; Presta; 2-year limited warrantyNot claimed

All figures are as listed by the retailer on Oct 23, 2026. Fills per charge are the maker's claims for their own test tires; gravel tires sit between road and MTB in volume, so expect your number to vary.

Which setup for your race

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Pumps and inflators we'd carry on race day

We don't list prices because they change daily. Check the store page before you buy. Product details above are as listed by the retailer on Oct 23, 2026.

The Gravel Stash isn't affiliated with any race or pump brand listed here.

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